Phew- Finished these just in time for the Miss Smarty Pants February Challenge- my first submission! I’ve been working on these jeans for about a month, so I’m really excited to have them finally completed, especially before the warm weather hits Florida! I was really getting concerned that I wouldn’t have a chance to wear them this season, today it’s in the 80’s. My denim is a natural hemp/organic cotton denim from Near Sea Naturals that I dyed naturally with Indigo. Between the indigo dyeing (which I did twice and you can read more about on my site), the sashiko stitched pockets, tons of top-stitching using a single needle, and extensive hammering for all that topstitching & all the rivets this was a really time-consuming project.
I made these jeans with the help of the Craftsy Class Sewing Designer Jeans taught by Angela Wolf. Her class is really excellent, it takes you through each step of construction and offers a variety of techniques to make the jeans how you like them. She shows different leg shape options, finishing techniques & pocket ideas. She shows some great distressing techniques too, which I didn’t use for this pair but may use in the future. Her lesson on fitting the pattern was so helpful! For my pattern I used Vogue V8774 which I had seen in Vogue Patterns magazine (Oct./Nov. 2013) Denim Issue. This was one of my fav issues so far since it had some really interesting articles on making artisanal jeans, how to source material, fitting and construction! I highly recommend checking it out if you’re thinking about jeans.
I altered my pattern quite a bit after trying on my muslin. I cut my pattern in a size 12 and added 1/2″ just to the outer seam to give my jeans a more straight leg, boyfriend cut look and added 1″ in length. I wanted them to just skim my leg at the thigh and then stay straight. I scooped out the back about 1/2″ and added a bit to the front crotch as well and did a full calf adjustment to remove wrinkles under the seat. What a great adjustment though it sounds crazy- it takes out some length from the thigh and adds it back under the calf only on the back of the pant- but it worked wonders! I also had to take in the back yoke about 1″ total on each side and then alter the waistline to match. The only change I would make is next time I’ll lengthen my belt loops and make them a little skinnier.
Love my new jeans- they’re very me I think and so comfortable! To read more about my jeans head on over to my website : www.sewpomona.com