Papercut patterns have rejigged a few of their patterns, giving them additional versions and releasing them as downloadable pdfs. And I see that the sloppy josephine has become the SJ Tee. Apparently in the UK/Aus/NZ a sloppy Joe is a pullover or sweater, but in America it is a loose meat burger. So it was a feminine version of sloppy Joe, but now it’s just the SJ.
I picked up my copy second hand during the swap at the Brisbane sewing bloggers meet up in March. I bought the fabric just over a week ago at The Fabric Store (where papercut patterns are stocked), labelled 100% lyocell. Tencel is the trade name, and it’s a semisynthetic fibre made from cellulose, similar to viscose/rayon. At $18m it was more than I usually pay, but the colour was so vibrant and I told myself I would experiment with new to me knit fabrics for the monthly stitch sew stretchy challenge ;o)
It took longer to cut out than it did to sew up, due to the thin slippery stretchy nature of the fabric, combined with trying to line up the print and the grain. The pattern had already been cut at XS but luckily I read that the pattern runs large. I did add an extra 2 cm to the sleeve cuff for my buxom biceps though. I tried washaway wonder tape for hemming and it worked really well (along with twin needle and walking foot). I am pleased to report that I then used low heat iron and the hem pressed well too.
I tried it on before I added the neck band and I didn’t like the effect of those diamonds running across my bosom, screaming ‘look here!’ and appearing somewhat crooked. Trawling the sewing blogosphere I had run across this version and decided to try some gathering in the centre (4″ worth). Then I added the neckband, stretched the back neckline and the sleeve section, didn’t stretch the front drapey section (or it resulted in funny pull lines across the bust). Then the centre neckband at the front looked floppy at the gathers, so I made it into a V by running a little seam up the middle – thus my drapey Josey! (slightly less 80s flashdance than the original design?)
pattern: papercut patterns sloppy josephine or SJ Tee (available from The Fabric store)
fabric: lyocell knit from The Fabric store
notions: Collins washaway wonder tape (from Fishpond.com.au – free shipping!)