The New to Me Challenge got me to thinking about the infamously-named Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick pattern company: why hadn’t I tried any of their designs? I had downloaded the free Tonic T-Shirt pattern, but not made it up.
SBCC (let’s just call it that, shall we?) is the creation of petite Betsy, who writes on her website: “… I have realized the lack of options for petite ladies in both the ready to wear market and home sewing patterns. Sometimes it is just about the right proportions–not just making clothing shorter.” Yes, there’s the rub. It makes sense that petite clothing needs to be scaled to the smaller person in every dimension–including collars, cuffs and other details–to look harmonious and flattering. And the petite figure may not be able to successfully pull off the same type of drama that a taller person can. So the idea of a line of patterns especially designed with these considerations in mind is appealing.
Since my failure to make up the free Tonic tee seemed to indicate that I was not extraordinarily excited about trying out another knit t-shirt pattern (the Lady Skater block is working pretty well for me at the moment), I decided to branch out a tiny bit to test the Mimosa Blouse, a raglan-sleeved woven t-shirt with bust darts and an optional neck tie.
This top is very similar to Sewaholic Patterns’ recently-released Belcarra Blouse (among other basic patterns), but I chose the SBCC version for these reasons: 1.) Designed for petites! 2.) Bust dart 3.) Option for a tie 4.) Slight vee shape to the neckline 5.) Available as a PDF.
I made a quick muslin, which led me to a few somewhat unexpected conclusions:
- I dislike wearing a floppy tie (I like the way they look, though).
- I needed to cut the neck and shoulder portion of the top in an XS rather than the S my measurements would indicate (the S gaped and showed my bra when I leaned over).
- This blouse is very boxy in quilting cotton and needs a drapey fabric.
- Despite the general feeling that bias facings are so much better than shaped facings, I wanted real facings on my blouse to support the neckline.
The fit is good through the shoulders and upper back. At the hip, I graded out to size small.
The shoulder dart shape in this size works well as drafted for me. I read a few other reviews that spoke of needing to change the length or depth of the dart.
The bust darts needed to be lowered and shortened for my middle-aged figure. No big deal; I just moved the dot for the tip of the dart down about 3/4″ and shortened it about 1″. The dart legs stayed put.
For a few more stunningly insightful thoughts on the pros and cons of the neck tie feature, please come visit me over at A Sewing Life! I’ll also be writing more soon about the pants I’m wearing with the blouse (silk crepe–fancy!).
I really do like the Mimosa Blouse, and I have at least three versions (complete with fabric selections) in my mind for summer tops. I’m also eager to try some other SBCC patterns based on this very promising first experience.