Hello! I’m Lee and I’m pleased to join you here at The Monthly Stitch. I’ve fallen out of the habit of blogging since my world has been turned upside down by a recent move with my family across the Atlantic from New York to Berlin. I may still be a bit untethered but my Papercut Patterns fandom– also a recent development– is rock solid. Since May I’ve made two Undercover Hoods, Pleated Pants, a Saiph Tunic, two SJ tees, and the Anima Pants you see here (sort of), all unblogged.
Each and every pattern fit me well straight out of the envelope, with a bit of grading for my shape, much to my surprise and delight since I usually struggle with fit. Granted, it probably helps that they’re all garments with a “sloppy” or “easy” fit. The Anima Pants, with a “slim” fit, are the exception, but as knit pants with an elastic waist I suppose they’re also on the forgiving side. Even though I aspire to be more chic than sloppy, these styles with their basic, well-drafted shapes really appeal to me and fit my wardrobe needs. The patterns– I used both printed and PDF– were easy to use and the instructions clear.
Here you have my first Undercover Hood, in gray ponte livened up with navy “disco stripe” (that’s how it was labeled at the store!) cotton jersey for the hood lining. I trimmed the front edge of the hood lining piece 1/8-inch shorter than the main hood piece so the ponte favors to the inside. I like the clean look this gives the contrast lining. I also used a plush elastic trim, like what you would see on the inside of a bra, to cover the edges at the neckline seam. I have yet to replace my serger, a sad casualty of moving because it doesn’t run on the current here, which means I’ve been trying out lots of different knit stitches and seam finishes on my excellent regular machine, which thankfully does run just fine with a plug adapter. I used the lightning bolt stitch for construction and a decorative jersey stitch to sew down the kangaroo pocket. I basted the cuff and hem band edges together with a mock overlock before attaching them to the hoodie. Otherwise– and aside from attaching elastic trim to the inside of the neckline as mentioned above– I left the edges unfinished. I could make umpteen more of these. Not only is this kind of garment well-suited to Berlin weather– relatively mild, always on the verge of raining or turning chilly– it goes with everything in my closet and makes me happy. Next I’d like to try the “cropped sweater” version shown with the Anima Pants in all the Anima pattern images.
Speaking of Anima Pants, mine are made out of humble navy sweatshirt of a fairly heavy weight. I had a hard time finding suitable fabric, and this was the best choice I could make. It sewed up well! I especially like the shape of the pockets and the mock fly detail, both pretty easy to execute. I spent an evening running all the pieces through my machine with a mock overlock stitch to finish the edges before construction. Lightning bolt stitch for construction again and a 2.5 by 2.5 zig zag for topstitching. I could only find 4cm elastic (the pattern calls for 5cm elastic), so I shortened the waistband piece accordingly. Well, actually I only shortened it by 1cm when I should have done 2, so the top of my waistband has a bit of a paper bag look. I’ll fix it for the next pair. I found a lighter weight gray sweatshirt fabric that is now washed and ready to be cut. Because I’m excited about sweatpants that don’t make me look like I’ve given up. Unfortunately the pants are somewhat obscured in all the many photos I ended up with. I don’t want to throw my photographer under the bus since he heroically went shopping, did errands, made dinner, and transported our daughter to and from a birthday party while I whiled the hours away. Better luck next time.
- Challenge Theme: Indie Fangirl, Indie Pattern Month
- Pattern used: Papercut Undercover Hood and Anima Pants
- Fabric: gray ponte and stripe cotton jersey for hoodie, navy sweatshirt for pants (from Naehkontor and Frau Tulpe)
- Notions: elastic trim to finish neckline seam, fusible web to hem hoodie pocket edges, strips of tricot interfacing for pants pocket edges
- Did you make any pattern alterations or design changes? Not really, just graded XS to S and sometimes M on the Undercover Hood. Anima pants in a straight size S.
- Total price: Didn’t keep track. Not a great bargain or anything– these fabrics are from small shops in Berlin and not cheap.