For the amnesty month I also made a pair of trousers for a friend.
There is a story behind these pants. A dear friend of my has a well beloved pair of trousers from Wolford. It was worn a lot and consequently a little worn. She really wanted a new pair but unfortunately Wolford doesn’t make these type of trousers anymore. In dutch we have a proverb goede raad is duur: good advice is expensive.
She knows about my sewing hobby and she asked me if I could copy her pants. I never ever made a copy of an existing garment. So this was a good start for the amnesty month.
The process. First I started with copying the pants on paper. Meanwhile my friend was on fabric hunt: the fabric had to be stretchy just like the original. In a local fabric shop she found the right fabric in her favorite color and just the original one: black. That was a good start. Because the copy had to fit just like the original one I first made a muslin. After trying the muslin and marking some changes the real process of making the pair of trousers started.
These pair of Wolford trousers has a sophisticated style: creases are sewed in and run vertically down in the front and back center of pant legs to create a smart look. The sewing creases eliminates one for pressing and it makes a permanent feature that requires no maintenance.
The pants has welt pockets on the front with a zipper. Because it’s a stretch fabric the zipper is in the side seam so there is only a back facing for the waist band. The pants sit on the waist and not on the hips.
The copy is made just like the real one except the side splits at the end of the legs. The original pair of trousers has side splits but my friend did not wanted the side splits this time. I also applied binding to the long raw edge of the back facing of the waistband. And on the center of the back on the inside of the waistband I stitched a crown. (it’s a private touch towards my friend). The seam in the front is 1 cm shorter than the back for a better fit on the foot.
By making these pants I found myself in the following challenges: pants, new skills and stretchy. And for my friend: she is over the moon. She asked me to take good care of the paper pattern.