Back to the beginning! Deer & Doe’s Belladone Dress was the first indie pattern I ever picked up, and I used it to make my wedding dress back in 2013. Ever since, it’s been in the back of my mind to use the pattern again to make a simpler daytime dress. So that was the idea when I pulled the pattern back out, but somehow it morphed into something a bit more silky and fancy than originally planned!
The thing was, I needed a dress for a wedding rehearsal dinner I was attending… aaaand I had this beautiful silk twill in my stash from my recent trip to Paris. Then I had the idea to add some contrast flat piping at the waistband and back cut-out, and this dress’s fate was sealed. I’ll get to you one day, casual Belladone!
I made the flat piping and bias binding from a bit of royal blue poly satin. Originally I had the bias binding showing around the neckline and armholes, but it looked kind of off. Too sporty or something. So I flipped it to the inside instead and tried stitching it down by machine. That didn’t look good either, so I unpicked it and stitched it down by hand instead. It took forever, but it definitely looks better this way, even if there is still a bit of puckering. This silk fabric is pretty unforgiving.
I made the same size as my last Belladone, 34 graded to 36 at the waist. I omitted the hem facing, and just did a small double turned hem instead. The only other change I made was to the upper back bodice. My last Belladone tended to gape a bit so I made the easy alteration detailed by Lauren here. Basically you just slash up the middle of the pattern piece and overlap by however much you need to take out – I did 1/4″.
This was my first experience sewing with 100% silk fabric. I was expecting it to be shifty and difficult, but it really wasn’t too bad. It’s actually a bit easier than sewing with rayon bemberg, which I’ve done quite a few times for linings. This is dangerous knowledge though, because now I’m going to want to make everything out of silk! It’s so lovely and floaty to wear. I at least need to make a few silk camisoles to help keep me cool in the summer humidity. Any pattern recommendations?
I’ve been on a bit of a dress-making kick – four in May and already two in June! It’s a fun change from the basics and separates I’ve been making a lot of lately. I do need some shorts pretty desperately though, so that’s next on my list!
Originally blogged at Design By Lindsay