I am very excited about Separates! Generally you sew a dress and that is an outfit in itself – or you sew a single separate and hopefully it goes with other things in your wardrobe, but maybe it doesn’t. But when you consider two (or more) separates together – suddenly you are almost in ‘Capsule Wardrobe’ land – which despite good intentions and lots of trying to follow Wardrobe Architect I have never managed! I am so pleased with my new outfit – and very proud of sewing it all in a week!
So – I started with the Grainline Morris Blazer. I downloaded the pattern shortly after it was released when lots of lovely versions started popping up all over the place. I found this perfect navy blue ponte at Clothspot and this was the starting point of my new outfit. I cut a size 12 at the shoulder and bust and graded out to a 14 at the waist. I cut the longest length as I didn’t want the blazer to be too cropped and I added a further two inches as well. I sewed it up on my regular machine using a straight stitch and used my overlocker to finish the seam allowances that weren’t enclosed by the facings. I could have cut a smaller size in the shoulder as the seams are sitting on the top of my arm but this isn’t disastrous. I am so pleased with how this turned out – wore it to work today and totally love it!
I wanted a skirt to go with it – after making two Chardon skirts I have been really into a high-waisted, flared silhouette but I decided to try something new (to me) for this challenge. I went for Sewaholic’s Hollyburn skirt which has a high waist and lots of potential for twirling without the same volume at the hips as Chardon. I found this very lightweight denim print fabric at Abakhan – it is light enough to be used for a top and is a bit clingy as a result but I love the paisley print and the soft shade of blue, which feels very summery. I cut a size 12 for the skirt and it fits pretty much exactly right – I took very slightly wider seam allowances at the waist but that was the only adjustment. When I make another (and I have some fabric ready and waiting!) I will look into trying a curved waistband to get a slightly better fit at the waist. I might also change to an invisible zipper because I am very bad at sewing centred zippers – luckily the print hides a multitude of sins!
Finally I added a top – I could have taken it easy and made a T-shirt (and that was a tempting option on Friday night when I hadn’t even started on the top!) but I wanted a woven top. It was a perfect opportunity to try a cropped top – I realised when I made the Chardon skirts that I didn’t have any tops that would work with a high-waisted skirt. The Named Kanerva blouse can be made as a cropped top or with a peplum and I love the button back. I already had some very lightweight white cotton with a woven stripe which I picked up in Abakhan a little while ago with a view to making a summer shirt. I cut a size 42 and made a super quick muslin to check the fit. I ended up doing a 1.5cm forward shoulder adjustment, raised the bottom of the armscye about 2.5cm (the pattern is drafted for sleeves and the armscye was quite deep), I dropped the neckline slightly at front and back as it was quite high and added about 1cm to the length and made a small SBA to get rid of some excess fabric at the bust. I used bias binding on the arms and neckline and used french seams throughout as the fabric is very lightweight and was prone to fraying. I found some cute lilac buttons in my sewing box which make a lovely finishing touch.
I love the combination of white cotton top with the blue of the skirt and jacket. I can wear the Kanerva blouse with my Chardon skirts, the blazer with my Ultimate trousers (and Chardon skirts and lots of other things) and I can wear the Hollyburn skirt with my Bellini blouses and Plantain tees!
To read more about my Morris blazer check out my post at notsewsimple.