Papercut Pattern separates.

For separates week I made a cute wee sweater and some pleated pants.

For my pants I used the recently released Guise Pants by Papercut patterns.  I have loved the old Papercut Patterns Pleated Pants (pictured here, but doesn’t look like you can buy the pattern anymore) ever since I saw Penny’s blog about them.  I have made 3 pairs but have never been able to get the fit right.  And now that I’ve have 2 babies, there is no getting my waist into those pants!

When I saw the Guise pants I was super happy to see an elastic waistband.  Skinny young things may think that’s a bit naff, buy my thirty-something, post belly body shouted HOORAY!  My Main fitting problem with pants is slim hips and legs, but a big tummy.

The Pattern sizing had me at an XL, but from previous experience I knew this would be too big.  There is a lot of ease in these pants and I don’t do “over-sized” that well.  I checked the finished measurements (so handy) and ummed and aahhed over M and L while taping my pattern.  I decided to take a risk and cut the M. I tried on the pants before I attached the waist band and ended up taking in the legs by about 1 cm on the inner and outer seams.

I used some blackish denim from Nick’s fabrics that has been in my stash for awhile, waiting to be made into pants.  I cut all the inside bits (linings and facings) out of some printed poplin off cuts that I had used for the lining of my Waver Jacket.  I can’t resist using colour on the inside.

The pleats were very simple and I wasn’t nervous at all about the zip fly, having done a few before and the with the instructions I was pretty confident.  I only had a 5 inch zip in my stash (the pattern call for a 6 inch) but that didn’t matter too much.  I just moved the notch on the fly facing up an inch.

The welts I was less confident about, I was mostly worried about them not being even and ending up with a crocked bum.  I took my time with marking the notches, fold-lines and stitch-lines, and everything else was simple from there.  I didn’t bother with the pocket facing, I preferred the colorful pocket bags to peak through.  I didn’t cut the full size pocket bag, as the scrap I was using was too small, and I doubt I’ll use them anyway.  The only step I mucked up was sewing the sides of the pocket bag together.  I did them upside down, both times, derp!

I struggled to get the corners really sharp, but I’m happy with the pockets all the same.

 The waist band and the belt loops were very straight forward.  I finished the waistband with a bias-binding (over-locking it just seemed too uncivilized after you spend so much time on the other little features!).  I inserted the elastic and decided to cut it in between the M and L recommended length.  After being happy with the fit of the elastic I finished the waistband, added the button hole, button and hemmed.

All finished up they fitted really well.  I was worried that taking them in would ruin the overall silhouette, but I didn’t want them too baggy.  There is quite a lot of fabric in the crotch, but that is to be expected.  I think next time I’ll blend between a S and M, and take some fabric out of the crotch. I am really happy with the waistband fit, very comfy, but I did find myself pulling them up all day (but this happens with most pants I wear).  I’ll use less elastic next time.  This fabric has a little bit  of 2-way stretch, so that adds to the comfy-ness.  I also like the ankle skimming length (I’m 5’9”).

I wore them for the rest of the day with my undercover hood and runners.  I felt pretty snazzy!

I knew I wanted a top that showed off the pleat details, but my usual style is long tops that cover my bum and tum. I was thinking about going right out of my comfort zone and trying a cropped sweater.  I have seen many lovely Astoria and Bonnie tops, but knew for the sake of thriftiness I needed to find something on my pattern stash.  After wearing my undercover hoody, I had a hunch that it might fit the bill.

I chose this lovely striped merino blend that had been sitting in my stash for a couple of years.  I got it form The Fabric Store and had always intended for it to be a cardigan or dress.  I was really keen on a stripe matching challenge and decided this lovely fabric had been sitting on the shelf way too long!

I cut a size smaller than I had for my fleece hoody. I had a gut feeling that I could made a top from this pattern without the hem, sleeve or neck bands, so I didn’t cut these out.  I cut 1 layer of fabric at a time to match my stripes as best I could, although I feel I missed the memo about raglan sleeves being impossible to match.

I sewed  the 4 pieces together easing (read stretching) to match the stripes.  It’s lucky I didn’t cut the bands as it is unlikely they would fit after my easing!

After a good press and a try on, my hunch was correct, cute top success. I overlooked them simply hemmed everything with my double needle.

I’m still not sure this length is good on me, but I love the colour and the stripes.  And the fabric is lovely, I love merino! Perfect for mummy snuggles.

Adios fellow stitches.