Papercut Pattern separates.

undercover hood and guise pants

For separates week I made a cute wee sweater and some pleated pants.

For my pants I used the recently released Guise Pants by Papercut patterns.  I have loved the old Papercut Patterns Pleated Pants (pictured here, but doesn’t look like you can buy the pattern anymore) ever since I saw Penny’s blog about them.  I have made 3 pairs but have never been able to get the fit right.  And now that I’ve have 2 babies, there is no getting my waist into those pants!

When I saw the Guise pants I was super happy to see an elastic waistband.  Skinny young things may think that’s a bit naff, buy my thirty-something, post belly body shouted HOORAY!  My Main fitting problem with pants is slim hips and legs, but a big tummy.

The Pattern sizing had me at an XL, but from previous experience I knew this would be too big.  There is a lot of ease in these pants and I don’t do “over-sized” that well.  I checked the finished measurements (so handy) and ummed and aahhed over M and L while taping my pattern.  I decided to take a risk and cut the M. I tried on the pants before I attached the waist band and ended up taking in the legs by about 1 cm on the inner and outer seams.

I used some blackish denim from Nick’s fabrics that has been in my stash for awhile, waiting to be made into pants.  I cut all the inside bits (linings and facings) out of some printed poplin off cuts that I had used for the lining of my Waver Jacket.  I can’t resist using colour on the inside.

Guise pants

The pleats were very simple and I wasn’t nervous at all about the zip fly, having done a few before and the with the instructions I was pretty confident.  I only had a 5 inch zip in my stash (the pattern call for a 6 inch) but that didn’t matter too much.  I just moved the notch on the fly facing up an inch.

zip 2

The welts I was less confident about, I was mostly worried about them not being even and ending up with a crocked bum.  I took my time with marking the notches, fold-lines and stitch-lines, and everything else was simple from there.  I didn’t bother with the pocket facing, I preferred the colorful pocket bags to peak through.  I didn’t cut the full size pocket bag, as the scrap I was using was too small, and I doubt I’ll use them anyway.  The only step I mucked up was sewing the sides of the pocket bag together.  I did them upside down, both times, derp!

I struggled to get the corners really sharp, but I’m happy with the pockets all the same.


 The waist band and the belt loops were very straight forward.  I finished the waistband with a bias-binding (over-locking it just seemed too uncivilized after you spend so much time on the other little features!).  I inserted the elastic and decided to cut it in between the M and L recommended length.  After being happy with the fit of the elastic I finished the waistband, added the button hole, button and hemmed.

guise waistband


All finished up they fitted really well.  I was worried that taking them in would ruin the overall silhouette, but I didn’t want them too baggy.  There is quite a lot of fabric in the crotch, but that is to be expected.  I think next time I’ll blend between a S and M, and take some fabric out of the crotch. I am really happy with the waistband fit, very comfy, but I did find myself pulling them up all day (but this happens with most pants I wear).  I’ll use less elastic next time.  This fabric has a little bit  of 2-way stretch, so that adds to the comfy-ness.  I also like the ankle skimming length (I’m 5’9”).

I wore them for the rest of the day with my undercover hood and runners.  I felt pretty snazzy!

I knew I wanted a top that showed off the pleat details, but my usual style is long tops that cover my bum and tum. I was thinking about going right out of my comfort zone and trying a cropped sweater.  I have seen many lovely Astoria and Bonnie tops, but knew for the sake of thriftiness I needed to find something on my pattern stash.  After wearing my undercover hoody, I had a hunch that it might fit the bill.


I chose this lovely striped merino blend that had been sitting in my stash for a couple of years.  I got it form The Fabric Store and had always intended for it to be a cardigan or dress.  I was really keen on a stripe matching challenge and decided this lovely fabric had been sitting on the shelf way too long!

I cut a size smaller than I had for my fleece hoody. I had a gut feeling that I could made a top from this pattern without the hem, sleeve or neck bands, so I didn’t cut these out.  I cut 1 layer of fabric at a time to match my stripes as best I could, although I feel I missed the memo about raglan sleeves being impossible to match.

I sewed  the 4 pieces together easing (read stretching) to match the stripes.  It’s lucky I didn’t cut the bands as it is unlikely they would fit after my easing!

After a good press and a try on, my hunch was correct, cute top success. I overlooked them simply hemmed everything with my double needle.

Undercover hood

I’m still not sure this length is good on me, but I love the colour and the stripes.  And the fabric is lovely, I love merino! Perfect for mummy snuggles.

undercover hood

Adios fellow stitches.


19 thoughts on “Papercut Pattern separates.

  1. Fabulous! Like you, I appreciate a bit of elastic in my waistband. This is the first time I’ve seen this design feature in such a stylish pair of trousers – thanks for sharing.


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  4. Glad you avoided the ‘crooked bum’ 🙂 I also think the trouser length looks great on you and I also think the same for the hem length on your top, it looks perfect. Well done!


  5. A great combination! Your welt pockets look great and I’m super impressed by your stripe matching. I think you look great in the outfit, I hope you get plenty of wear out of it!


  6. Bang-up job on matching the stripes!! And i think the top is the perfect length to show off all those lovely details on the pants.


  7. Hi Caroline, your trousers look amazing, the fit is really good, and the fabric is lovely. I like the way your trousers can be dressed up or down. I see you bought some fabric in Auckland shops. If you are in Auckland, you might want to try our sewing group Koru Couture, we meet in Birkenhead once a month on Saturday mornings (although we are starting to do evening sessions). The group is really good fun. All the info is on


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