For separates week I made a cute wee sweater and some pleated pants.
For my pants I used the recently released Guise Pants by Papercut patterns. I have loved the old Papercut Patterns Pleated Pants (pictured here, but doesn’t look like you can buy the pattern anymore) ever since I saw Penny’s blog about them. I have made 3 pairs but have never been able to get the fit right. And now that I’ve have 2 babies, there is no getting my waist into those pants!
When I saw the Guise pants I was super happy to see an elastic waistband. Skinny young things may think that’s a bit naff, buy my thirty-something, post belly body shouted HOORAY! My Main fitting problem with pants is slim hips and legs, but a big tummy.
The Pattern sizing had me at an XL, but from previous experience I knew this would be too big. There is a lot of ease in these pants and I don’t do “over-sized” that well. I checked the finished measurements (so handy) and ummed and aahhed over M and L while taping my pattern. I decided to take a risk and cut the M. I tried on the pants before I attached the waist band and ended up taking in the legs by about 1 cm on the inner and outer seams.
I used some blackish denim from Nick’s fabrics that has been in my stash for awhile, waiting to be made into pants. I cut all the inside bits (linings and facings) out of some printed poplin off cuts that I had used for the lining of my Waver Jacket. I can’t resist using colour on the inside.
The pleats were very simple and I wasn’t nervous at all about the zip fly, having done a few before and the with the instructions I was pretty confident. I only had a 5 inch zip in my stash (the pattern call for a 6 inch) but that didn’t matter too much. I just moved the notch on the fly facing up an inch.
The welts I was less confident about, I was mostly worried about them not being even and ending up with a crocked bum. I took my time with marking the notches, fold-lines and stitch-lines, and everything else was simple from there. I didn’t bother with the pocket facing, I preferred the colorful pocket bags to peak through. I didn’t cut the full size pocket bag, as the scrap I was using was too small, and I doubt I’ll use them anyway. The only step I mucked up was sewing the sides of the pocket bag together. I did them upside down, both times, derp!
I struggled to get the corners really sharp, but I’m happy with the pockets all the same.
The waist band and the belt loops were very straight forward. I finished the waistband with a bias-binding (over-locking it just seemed too uncivilized after you spend so much time on the other little features!). I inserted the elastic and decided to cut it in between the M and L recommended length. After being happy with the fit of the elastic I finished the waistband, added the button hole, button and hemmed.
All finished up they fitted really well. I was worried that taking them in would ruin the overall silhouette, but I didn’t want them too baggy. There is quite a lot of fabric in the crotch, but that is to be expected. I think next time I’ll blend between a S and M, and take some fabric out of the crotch. I am really happy with the waistband fit, very comfy, but I did find myself pulling them up all day (but this happens with most pants I wear). I’ll use less elastic next time. This fabric has a little bit of 2-way stretch, so that adds to the comfy-ness. I also like the ankle skimming length (I’m 5’9”).
I wore them for the rest of the day with my undercover hood and runners. I felt pretty snazzy!
I knew I wanted a top that showed off the pleat details, but my usual style is long tops that cover my bum and tum. I was thinking about going right out of my comfort zone and trying a cropped sweater. I have seen many lovely Astoria and Bonnie tops, but knew for the sake of thriftiness I needed to find something on my pattern stash. After wearing my undercover hoody, I had a hunch that it might fit the bill.
I chose this lovely striped merino blend that had been sitting in my stash for a couple of years. I got it form The Fabric Store and had always intended for it to be a cardigan or dress. I was really keen on a stripe matching challenge and decided this lovely fabric had been sitting on the shelf way too long!
I cut a size smaller than I had for my fleece hoody. I had a gut feeling that I could made a top from this pattern without the hem, sleeve or neck bands, so I didn’t cut these out. I cut 1 layer of fabric at a time to match my stripes as best I could, although I feel I missed the memo about raglan sleeves being impossible to match.
I sewed the 4 pieces together easing (read stretching) to match the stripes. It’s lucky I didn’t cut the bands as it is unlikely they would fit after my easing!
After a good press and a try on, my hunch was correct, cute top success. I overlooked them simply hemmed everything with my double needle.
I’m still not sure this length is good on me, but I love the colour and the stripes. And the fabric is lovely, I love merino! Perfect for mummy snuggles.
Adios fellow stitches.