Think Tank, Cry Wolf – Indie Separates Contest

For the Separates challenge I chose two patterns, the Myla tank by Sew Liberated and the Peter and the Wolf trousers by Papercut Patterns.

Interestingly, both of these Indie designers are new to me, but as I’ve managed to cobble together an outfit I’ve decided to enter the Separates contest.

First of all, the Myla Tank. This is quite a simple sleeveless top. It has a hemline that is higher at the front than at the back and the back is split into two lower panels. I chose this pattern as I had a limited length of fabric (~ 1 metre) to use.

Pattern alterations / Design Changes

I made many changes to the pattern. I changed the neckline so it was less deep, changed the shape and size of the armscyes, changed the length (drastically) and took in the side seams too. Overall, I tried to keep the basic look of the pattern the same and I kept the decorative placket.

Instructions

These were very clear. I used, as suggested French seams throughout and bias bound the neckline and armscyes with self bias-binding. I did have a little trouble with altering the pattern at the back. The pattern didn’t have any notches, not necessarily a problem unless you happen to need to make all the fitting changes I made. It was hard to see how much overlap there was between the two lower back panels, without measuring all the original pattern pieces and working out the overlap. If the pattern had indicated the overlap, then it would have saved me that particular job.

Fabric and Notions

The fabric I used was some peace silk from Organic silks. This was Shibori dyed using dock leaves at a dyeing workshop I’ve written about that here. The fabric is very beautiful and light-weight. I can imagine wearing this on a hot sultry day in summer. In fact, it is quite hot and stormy today and it feels great to wear! It’s a little transparent so I may have to think carefully about my underwear choices with this top! Apologies for the bra straps on display here, but I don’t seem to have any underwear that doesn’t show with this top yet. Perhaps I need to make something suitable to wear.

 

 

I have long admired the design of the Peter and the Wolf trousers from Papercut Patterns and it was only a matter of time before I purchased this pattern. They skinny trousers with a side invisible zipper and have an interesting yoke design and scalloped hem.

Pattern alterations / Design Changes

I made the size labelled S (Small). I also added a bit more room for my waist and added a little more leg length, but these were the only changes I made on the pattern. Once I had made up the front and back, I tacked the side seams together and then made small alterations to the side seams after trying the trousers on. I think on reflection I was probably a bit nearer to the XS size in the end. I also took in the crotch and the centre seams at the front a little to improve the fit. Overall though these were quite small fussy changes.

Instructions

The pattern comes on what looks like brown wrapping paper, it’s recycled paper. I like this as I always trace my patterns and made my own version, so the paper wasn’t flimsy and was easy to trace from. The instructions were very clear and easy to follow, although there were no instructions for how to insert an invisible zip, but there are plenty of tutorials and videos on the web so this wasn’t a problem.

Fabric and Notions

The fabric was purchased from Minerva Crafts. It is a medium-weight stretch denim in beige. It has quite a nice peach-skin feel to it. For the contrasting panels and yoke, I dyed the same fabric brown. The only notions used were an 18 cm invisible zip and a hook and bar fastener.

I did have a bit of a torrid time making these trousers. It was the first time on my new overlocker and I got a bit overlocker-happy and I managed to make a hole in one of the leg pieces. There’s more on my blog about how I managed to sort out this disaster.

I’m very happy with both my top and trousers. I’ve worn the trousers to work already and they are very comfortable. I love the deep pockets and even though I was worried about the comfort of a seam running straight down the front of the trousers over the knee, this didn’t really bother me at all. I’ll definitely make another pair of these, just need to consider what fabrics to use. I think I will make the trousers a tad tighter too. I think they are a little loose around the waist (yes, I know that’s where I added some extra ease, but I can’t stand tightness around the waist!)

The silk Myla top feels wonderful to wear. Unfortunately the top isn’t quite finished. I was hoping to be able to sew some hand-made ceramic buttons on for the photos, but they are still in the process of being made!

I’m not sure I would make another top like this though, at the moment as I have quite a few sleeveless tops and in England they only get a limited wearing. However, I like the split-back (very airy on a hot day) and I think it’s great in combination with the trousers. I feel the hemline works well with the trouser waistline and I couldn’t believe how well the colours complement each other in this outfit.