IPM2015 – Raglan Fever

Hello everyone! This is my first post for The Monthly Stitch. I’m very excited to be part of such a talented and enthusiastic group! I have followed the blog on and off for a couple of years but only just decided I needed a boost in my sewing ‘career’ and that The Monthly Stitch would be a good way to do that.

I try to use recycled materials a lot in my projects – the more that’s kept out of landfill the better, right? I have also just started sewing activewear so you’ll see a few posts in that vein (well, pending successful outcomes, which aren’t always guaranteed, especially when working with Lycra! ……:-) For this project though I used recycled for the muslins, and purchased fabrics for the finals.

So for Indie Pattern Month, I had a couple of projects in mind, but only managed to complete (and take pictures of!) one of them.

IPM 2015 One Pattern Four Takes

(The Brady Bunch photo thing is completely accidental, I swear!)

The Stitchy Details:

  • Challenge Theme: This project fits both ‘New to me’ and ‘one pattern two ways’.
  • Pattern used: Liola Patterns “Zoe” Raglan
  • Fabric: Maroon marle jersey, blueish-purple poly lycra
  • Notions: Nope – just the accent colour using scraps of fluoro lycra!
  • Did you make any pattern alterations or design changes? After a couple of muslins, I went down one size and took 3cm out of the bodice length.
  • Total price: The fabric was from a cheap fabric consignment shop and both were $6/m. Muslins were made from recycled t-shirts!

I decided a few weeks ago that I wanted to make raglan t-shirts. I have a favourite one that recently got a huge rip in the sleeve, which made me sad; but what’s a sewing room for if not to fill holes in wardrobes?

So I went trawling around the internet looking for raglan tee patterns. It was a toss-up between Liola’s Zoe Raglan and Hey June’s Lane Raglan. In the end I went for the Zoe, because I really dug the pleated sleeves. For the muslins, (of which I made two) I hit the refashion stash again and used a couple of old martial arts t-shirts (of which I have several) and some bits of jersey from my stash (of which I have lots).

The first one I made in size large. It was comfy but a bit big, and definitely longer than what I wanted. (For both these muslins I also folded out the sleeve pleats on the pattern piece, just to make the muslin process a little quicker.)

Raglan 2

(And the kanji is upside-down because that was the only way I could fit the pattern on the tee. Nevermind. Good for laughs at the dojo!)

The second one I graded to a medium at the shoulder seams, and took 3cm out of the bodice length.

Raglan 3

Er, the neck band didn’t work at all on this one! That jersey was pretty stable. This is now a designated pyjama top 🙂

Finally I woman’d up and cut into a nice piece of maroon marle jersey. This time I went for a straight medium, with just the 3cm taken out of the length.

Raglan 4

I really, really love this top! The jersey is nice and soft to wear with a comfy amount of stretch, but still holds a good shape. The sleeve pleats look the bomb!


I used triple stitch on the pleats, my overlocker for the seams and twin needle on my regular machine to finish the hems.

And then, because you can’t have too much of a good thing, I made a ‘sport’ version, (also because I liked the designer’s example so much!)

Raglan 5

This time I used the twin needle, with contrast thread, to do the sleeve pleats. I think it looks very sporty! (It was also decidedly quicker than the triple-stitch option!) Overlocker again for the seams, and contrast zig-zag on the hems. My overlocker didn’t love the bulk at the seams, created by the contrast fabric, and the neckband got a little wonky. Oh, and I made a bit of a hash of the contrast strips which somehow ended up much wider on one side?? Still, I’m pretty happy with the result and have worn it a few times already!


I love this pattern and will definitely make it again! It’s very versatile. I’m already thinking of another sport version with slightly longer sleeves, and thumbholes!

It was an easy pattern, and the instructions were well-written and easy to follow – although I really only read the section about the sleeve pleats (and I should have read it twice – have a look at my blog to see how the maroon shirt nearly didn’t happen!)

I’m loving everyone’s amazing creations this month! Well done, you are all so inspirational!!

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