today was a really warm day, nevertheless I took pictures of jackets, especially for you, isn’t that nice of me?
You’re welcome 😉
reminder for myself, SMILE in pictures
Joking aside, the weather here has been atrocious, one day it ist super hot, the next few days it can get so cold, you have to don a jacket and maybe even wear a jumper underneath, and that all in the same week, is this what you call summer? So I have been switching between wearing warm to not so warm jackets, to no jackets at all. Fortunately, I have caught the sewing jackets bug, so now I have a lot of different garments to choose from.
For this weeks challenge of the Indie Pattern Month I decided to make two versions of the Rigel Bomber by Papercut Patterns. I really adore this pattern, but what really got me hooked, was Ginger makes Rigel Bomber Jacket January, the participants made so many lovely versions, therefore I couldn’t resist any longer and bought the pattern. Luckily, you can find a list of different tips and hints on how to sew the Jacket here. I made my first version in April and loved it, but wanted to make some changes on the next one. The pattern is not that difficult to sew, and the Raglan sleeves make the inserting of the sleeves a breeze, the only problem I have with the pattern is, that there is no lining included. You have to figure out how to do that yourself or go to links I gave up above.
For my second version, here it is my first version of course, I wanted the neckline a little narrower, I lengthened the sleeves again and cut the band for the bottom edge wider then intended, so it wouldn’t be tight, but loose, once the jacket is closed. In addition, I cut the pockets quite a bit larger than the original pattern pieces, because they are far too small. I lined the jacket with some green lining fabric and used a black metal zipper. For the outer fabric I used Echino fabric, a thicker cotton fabric of medium to heavy weight, which I have been saving for a special project for nearly 4 years now, it’s got elephants, giraffes and deer on it – so this is my Wild Animals Rigel Bomber.
All the outer pattern pieces were reinforced with some interfacing, I used Vlieseline G405, to give it a little more weight and incidentally, it makes the jacket a bit warmer, ideal for colder weather, i.e. 10-15°C.
Rigel Bomber take two, well really three, but who’s counting: As you can tell by now, I really like the Papercut Rigel Bomber pattern, but I’ve longed for a cropped version, as that just works better with my dresses. I haven’t found a cropped Bomber jacket pattern as yet, so I had to modify the pattern myself.
The fabric is very hippiesque and made from something synthetic and is of medium weight, what exactly it’s made of, I have no idea, but it frays like crazy, so I had to finish all the seams with a serger. This jacket is not as warm as the first version, so perfect, for not so cold weather, i.e. 15-20°C. For the shortened version I wanted the jacket to hit my waist, so I measured the length and folded the pattern piece to reach the right length. I also lengthened the sleeves and made the neckline higher, like in my first version. Of course I lined the cropped version of my Bomber, too, with some blue lining fabric, the metal zipper is purple. I left out the pockets in the cropped version, as they would have sat on my chest, not a good place for pockets.
Both of these makes offered different challenges and I was obviously not sewing with my head on properly, so let’s recount: For my first make I had already inserted the sleeves, tried it on and then someone commented that they were to wide, so I took them in, finished the seams with my serger, tried it on again and, GAAAHH, too small, I couldn’t even bend my arms comfortably. So I had to recut them, fortunately I had bought four metres of the fabric, reinserted them, done.
Similar problem with my second make, just as I was nearly finished, I only had to close the hole through which I had turned the jacket (I had tried the jacket on several times before and thought it looked fine), I noticed that the jacket was far too big, damn. So I had to turn it again, unpick the bottom band and take in about 10-15cm from the back. I took in the band too, sewed everything together and turned it out again. Yippie, the seam ripper was really happy, *it’s not like it gets used often* said no seamstress, ever.
But on both my makes I made the same identical mistake, so clearly I wasn’t thinking clearly while inserting the zip. As you can recall, I narrowed the neckline, i.e. I made it smaller and not so wide, so then for some reason I hadn’t considered that shortening the neckline would mean that the zip would have to be longer to compensate this. Well, I sewed everything together, and only as I was attaching the lining to the outer fabric I discovered the too short zips. Both times I did this, both times I had a total GAAH dammit moment. But I couldn’t face unpicking the entire thing, so I left them as they were and just added a square piece of reinforced fabric and a kam snap. And no one is the wiser that it wasn’t intentional.
At least they really match now, don’t they?
Yes, they have mistakes, yes, I could have done better, but nevertheless, I will wear the hell out of these jackets, well, at least as soon as it gets colder again, which is probably tomorrow, if the weather gods don’t show a little mercy.
More info and other things I’ve made you can find on my blog Morven’s Handmades
Enough of me now, let’s have a look at all the other gorgeous makes during #IPM2015