Hello Everyone! I’m Kaine and this is my first time posting to the Monthly Stitch. I’ve really enjoyed reading the posts from this community. Since this is Frocktober, I thought it would be a good time to share a make.
Why I bought this Pattern
How could I not? The Picture was just so beautiful. I just love fit and flare plus the contrasting white collar really pulled me in. It promised to be an easy sew.
Number of Pattern Pieces and Fabric + Plus Notions
The Pattern has 15 pieces with seam allowances included. I cut for View A, which needed only 8 pieces. For notions, a button and an invisible zipper. I chose a Chocolate Brown Herringbone Fabric (not made from a natural fibre) which is very soft and light weight and prone to wrinkling. I also decided to use a lining to give the Herringbone fabric support to hold its shape.
Sizing, Cutting and Adjustment considerations
I have the PDF pattern which comes in sizes 8 – 20. Based on my Bust measurements I cut the 20 my first tryout. this version I cut a combo of 18/16. I always cut larger when dealing with a new pattern because naturally it’s easier to make things smaller.
Pattern Instructions (Level of difficulty)
The instructions are clear and detailed with images to support. They even take the time to explain the insertion of an invisible zipper. The pattern does not mention clipping the seams when sewing the really curvy princess lines of the front pieces.I actually managed without clipping the seams, just stretched as I sewed. A confident beginner can make this dress, especially if they skip the collar.
Notable trouble spots during sewing
Mainly the collar. The first time I sewed it, it came up short so guess I either cut it inaccurately or one of the seam allowance on my dress is too small. The seam allowance at the zipper came up to half an inch instead of five-eighths because I used the width of the zipper itself as a guide. The other thing about the collar is the tabs for the button. It takes a lot of careful stitching, trimming and poking to get it to look remotely like the pictures. So this is where I definitely wasted a lot of time.
Features of Garment
High neck-line. Pilgrim Collar. Invisible zip. Princess lines. Cap sleeves.
Special finishing touches (if any)
I did a full lining for the dress by making a duplicate of the dress and the sleeves. I attached the lining to the sleeves separately. I first sewed the facing pieces to the neckline of the lining to make it just one piece. Then attached it to the dress at the neck after basting on the collar. I also sewed it to the zipper tape on the wrong side for a clean finish. Finally, while inserting the sleeves, the lining was also attached at the armholes.
- attached facing to the lining first
Comment on fit and notes for future renditions
The size 20 turned out to be too loose even with the lining. On the pattern pieces it is said that the finished size adds 3.5 inches of ease. So a size 20 left me with a 45.5 inch bust line. I took the whole thing apart, traced out a custom size of 18 at the shoulders, 16 at the bust and waist and 18 in the skirt. Re-cut the pieces still using my old pieces and sewed it up again. The Fit was great second time around. Note for next time, would be to use a firmer fabric to avoid adding a lining.
Lessons or techniques learned (if any)
Inserting a Full dress lining by attaching it at the neck, armholes and zipper. Attaching a simple collar and sewing princess lines easily by clipping them first.
Thanks for reading.