The eyes have it – Victory Patterns Jackie Dress

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. She is smiling.

It wasn’t that long ago I was bemoaning that unlike other sewing folk, I wasn’t quick thinking enough to enter the Indie Pattern Month challenges. And yet here is my post in the “New to Me” category! All of that inspiration flowing through my blog reel must have been motivational.

One such inspiration was the dress right at the top of TMS “New to Me!” post – the Victory Patterns Jackie Dress. After a quick browse through the Spotlight online store, I found this unique eye print, and decided they would be a match made in creepy print/dramatic dress heaven. When I went to my local Spotty and found the exact amount of fabric I needed left on a bolt in the clearance section, I knew the sewing gods were smiling on my plan!

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. She is smiling.

Victory Patterns is a company that I knew little about prior to this month, and I was pleasantly surprised by this pattern. Not only does it offer an interesting and unique style, the instructions (both included with the pattern and in a sewalong) are comprehensive yet not infantilising, containing specific details which are lacking in many other patterns: finished garment measurements, the height and cup size the pattern is drafted for (168-175cm and a B cup, in case you’re wondering), a detailed description of suitable knits with a stretch percentage and stretch gauge, and fine attention to detail such as accomodating vertical shrinkage when applying interfacing.

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. She is smiling.

The only complaint I have, and it’s not much of a complaint, is that there are a lot of notches on this pattern. I counted 10 on the front princess seam alone. I can see how they can be helpful in moderation, but having so many snips into a 6mm seam allowance seemed unwise, and caused a bit of trouble with pattern matching when I aligned the wrong notches together. All I could think was Fashion Incubator comparing excessive notches to “some kind of a communicable disease.”

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. Her back is to the camera.

The garment itself came together quite easily, unless you count my ill-advised attempt to convert it to a pullover style with no back opening (pro-tip: don’t do this, unless you have a smaller head than mine). I cut the dress one size up from what my body measurements indicated, going by the finished size chart instead – purely personal preference for fit.

And the fabric – oh, the fabric. Despite the fact that near every fabric I’ve purchased from Spotlight in the past has been off grain, I was still surprised at how off kilter this print was. Guess I’m a slow learner! After a bit of consultation on social media, I decided to align the pattern grainline with the actual fabric grain and the vertical print, treating the drifting horizontal print as a diagonal and attempting to align horizontal lines across seams where possible.

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. She is smiling.

And there we have it! One spectacular, spectacularly creepy midi dress. Is it a commentary on society, like the looming eyes of Dr T.J. Eckleburg symbolising the death of the American Dream and casting eternal judgement on the empty morality of those who pass beneath? Or just a trend that has finally made its way to chain store fabric? Either way, it’s a project I had great fun working and of which I am immensely proud.

A woman stands in a garden. She is wearing a calf-length, full sleeve, high neck dress with black graphic eye print on white. She is smiling.

Read more on my blog.

19 thoughts on “The eyes have it – Victory Patterns Jackie Dress

  1. Pingback: IPM2017: And the New To Me contest winners are…. | The Monthly Stitch

  2. i absolutly LOVE it. I LOVE the length. Its gorgeous on you. the print is OUTRAGEOUS. You’ve got to make more of this same one and post about it. I WOULD STEAL this dress from you if I could, but alas, we are NOT AT ALL the same size. You clearly love it, in the photos. KUDOS. Way to go.

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  3. Great work! The fabric is so cool! I found your your comments on off-the-grain fabric really interesting as I made a top recently that had the same problem – not sure I handled it so well.

    Really with you on all the extras that help with a pattern such as finished garment measurements, the height and cup size the pattern is drafted for. I normally make quite a few fit adjustments to patterns so it is useful to know this information as a starting point. As for information on which knits are suitable with a stretch percentage guide – wish more pattern companies did this, because it’s taken me a long, long time to get to grips with knit fabric choice.

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    • It’s really hard to know what to do with off grain fabrics – except not buy them! It’s always a trade off between fabric hanging correctly and a straight print.

      It took me so long to understand how to match knits to patterns! I struggle sometimes even now so I agree that stretch gauge is super helpful.

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  4. Love love love this fabric. I have something similar but more like canvas in my stash and have been unable to decide what to do with it. This is so inspiring. Thank you for sharing.

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  5. Great work – I have found the opposite with many indie companies the lack of notches for matching has perplexed me somewhat at times. I haven’t used Victory patterns though so maybe they swing the other way 🙂 I love how happy you look in the dress also the back opening – so cute.

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  6. wonderful, the dress is simply gorgeous. And I’m with you about the deep and profound meaning of that print….surely a portent of looming Armageddon…Thanks to pointer to Victory Patterns…yet another I hadn’t heard of

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