My ultimate Ultimate Shirt

I love it when the Monthly Stitch’s plans coincide with my own. I’ve been planning this shirt since June when I bought the fabric (a beautifully soft and drapey rayon) and since the challenge this month has been all about collars it seemed like fate. I also love it when I leave things to the last minute, like posting this less than two hours before the month is out (in Seattle, at least).

Anyway, this shirt is the Ultimate Shirt, which is currently only available as a class at Sew Over It in London. They do release their patterns eventually, and I hope they bring this one out soon, cos it’s a good ‘un – I learned a lot when I took the class in January and this is now my fourth version. It’s a fitted shirt with a collar stand and bias bound cuffs, but for this version I left out the darts for more volume around the waist.

My first three Ultimate Shirts are all cotton, which means they’re a fair bit crisper than this one. I’m no stranger to working with rayon (it’s been a bit of an obsession this year) but I was a little worried about the collar stretching out. The pattern doesn’t call for staystitching on the bodice neckline, but I think I’d add it in. It does suggest doing topstitching around the stand and the collar itself (plus the cuffs), but I didn’t bother here – the pattern on the fabric is busy enough that I don’t feel it would have added anything. I also left the top button off, since I never do them all up either.

There are vertical darts on the front and back bodice, but I left them out to maximise the volume. I think it works in a drapey fabric, but I don’t think I’d do it in a cotton. Other than that I didn’t change anything deliberately, though I did accidentally screw up on the cuffs – one is in slightly the wrong place thanks to me not paying attention to the notches. It’s not the end of the world though – I normally wear my sleeves rolled up so no-one’s going to see.

I often say I love the things I’ve made, but this time I really mean it. The fabric might be my favourite ever, and I love how it feels against my skin. It’ll see a lot of action in the coming months.

I wrote a little bit more over on my blog, Stuff Jo Has Made. Check it out!


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