Squeaking in here on the last day of Pants month. I’ve actually had these made for a few weeks, just been a bit pants on the blogging front.
I bought the True Bias Lander Pants pattern the week it came out. For a person who lives in trousers, and loves making them, I am woefully short on pants patterns. I do have plans to remedy this, I have my eye on the Victory Patterns Esme Pants, and the Closet Case Files Sasha. However, I’ve also bought a Craftsy course (my first) on drafting a pants sloper which I’m pretty excited about.
So I had been looking at the Republique du Chiffon Gaston pants for ages, but the instructions weren’t yet available in English. So when the Landers came out, it seemed the perfect compromise. (Perversely the Gaston English version came out about a week later.)
But, I’m not in love with these ones. I blame the fabric. Because we are heading into Summer here in NZ there wasn’t a lot to choose from by way of good fabric for these. I didn’t want to make them up in denim, so I was looking for a good drill or similar. This fabric is actually lovely, it’s just that wearing brown pants makes me feel VERY drab. Even when I pair them with bright colours. This fabric also holds creases a lot (despite having a bit of spandex in it) and so I feel a bit meh in these. But I persist and wear them anyway.
I think this pattern is great, and if I can get my hands on some good navy or plum (like on the pattern illustrations) with better crease resistance, I think I will love them. I do love wide leg pants, and I think the waistband/fly/pockets situation is super flattering.
I cut out the size 10 and graded out to the 12 through the hip to accommodate standard changes I make in this area (see below). I lengthened the leg by about 5cms as I am taller than what the pattern is drafted for. There is a seam allowance around the hip of 2.5cm to assist with fitting the pants, which I thought was a great inclusion in the pattern. The instructions were super clear and there’s a sewalong on the True Bias website too.
In terms of construction, I basically ignored most of the instructions and just did my own thing. Pants for Real People have a great construction order which allows you to fit as you sew, and there’s no going back from there. I also never, I repeat NEVER, would put a back pocket on a pant until they are made up. Way too much risk of ruining your ass with dodgy pocket placement.
I made my standard adjustments of scooping out the rear crotch curve and adding 0.5cm at the waistband on the right hand side. I also took in the back inseam slightly as it gives a bit more grab under the butt which I like.
I managed to make a mistake in constructing the front pockets so they aren’t caught in the waistband. Oh well, these things happen.
So the verdict is, I will definitely make these again, but in a fabric choice that suits me and my wardrobe better. Until then, I do recommend this pattern, but it’s not true love as yet.