Why I bought this Pattern
I wear jackets and suits for work quite regularly so I really wanted to learn how to sew one. I registered for Mimi G’s Blazer course about 2 years ago and she recommended this pattern. Needless to say this is the first time I am making it. I haven’t had time to do any serious sewing since I have been nesting, if you will.
Number of Pattern Pieces and Fabric + Plus Notions
The Pattern has 11 pieces with seam allowances included. The Front Piece comes in three separate pieces for 3 cup sizes. I used 2.5 yards of Ankara (Wax print) for this project and 2 yards matching lining in what I think is China Silk Polyester, and 2 one inch buttons with gold details.
Sizing, Cutting and Adjustment considerations
It comes in a wide range of sizes (6-24). I cut the 16 with the B cup for the front. I sewed View C which is the short version , but I still managed to squeeze in the pocket pieces, just about for stuffing one’s cell phone and loose change. I also made the sleeves short by cutting at the elbow line, nothing too serious.
Pattern Instructions (Level of difficulty)
reinforced with extra interfacing
Had to pop out the seam gauge to help with those 1 inch seams
This is from the Amazing Fit series, so the instructions are very detailed. This is not for beginners per se, but really it just requires a lot of attention to detail. A very long section is devoted to fitting and adjustments. The ideal thing would be to make a mock up, adjust it to your perfect size, then save that as your pattern pieces or even transfer the adjustment to paper. That way you can skip all the adjusting in future. Since I was making this for someone, I went straight ahead with the project as it is, simply dived right in and basted a lot.
Notable trouble spots during sewing
Inserting sleeves, lot’s of pins
Inserting under collar
Be very very careful with those dots and markings after cutting out the pieces. I was not very precise with some of the dots at the collar and lapel and it made getting the points perfect a little hard. In future I’ll use tailor tacks and not just markers. Inserting the under collar was very easy actually, It was the upper collar that I had trouble aligning because of those dots.
Features of Garment
some wrinkling in the collar from trying to get the edges sharp
Notched collar, short sleeves, fully lined, in-seam pockets, decorative pocket flaps.
Special finishing touches (if any)
Made a mistake with the sleeves. I hemmed each piece individually before joining the two pieces together, instead of joining the 2 pieces together then hemming it as one piece,
For the Sleeves, I folded in the edge by a quarter inch on the wrong side, then pinched a pleat on the right side all around the edge and top stitched it down. I’m not sure what the proper term is for this type of finishing. I attached the lining to the inside by hand stitching with a slip stitch. It wasn’t the best job on my part, but I was a little worn out at the time.
Comment on fit and notes for future renditions
As recommended by the instructions, the owner wore the jacket in its basted form and I adjusted the fit directly on her body before the final sewing. It really fit great. I will definitely take my time to make a great fit when making it for myself.
Lessons or techniques learned (if any)
My Dressform is smaller than the owner of the outfit, so the fit is not apparent here.
Transfer all your marking carefully, be patient with fitting adjustments, pins are your friends, and most importantly, how a basic blazer is constructed. I had to make my own shoulder pads for this with polyester quilt batting. Overall, it was a great learning experience even though I made it under time constraint.
Until next time, finding a little time is all you need. Visit me sometime.