Aveiro cardigan two ways

I may not be eligible for the October week 4 challenge, as it is my first blog post ever. I have made two versions of the Itch to Stitch Aveiro cardigan this week – a short one and a regular length version.  The short version is my wearable muslin using blue double knit from my stash. I bought olive green stretch rib velour on a remainder sale at Spotlight for the regular length version.  The cords ran across the fabric instead of along the length, but as it had 2-way stretch I thought it would be ok.  Both are much cooler to wear than I expected, so make a perfect transition season top layer.

I couldn’t find matching snaps, so used buttons, and button holes on short Aveiro (not to be recommended) and buttons hiding snaps on regular length Aveiro.  I took Fadanista’s advice that I would need one, and did a 1 1/2″ FBA, but rotated dart to front, and used it as a structural and design feature to support pockets.

Short Aveiro with pockets in band

Regular Aveiro with pockets

I inserted hidden pocket in band of short Aveiro.

 

 

 

Pocket hidden in band of short Aveiro

lined pocket in band of short Aveiro

This photo shows the internal construction of the pocket hidden in the waistband of the short Aveiro.  Pocket on right shows facing top and bottom of stretch lining net. Sewn to outside edge of waistband, down from edge of seam allowance, across just below sewing line, then back up to seam allowance.  Pocket on left folded up and sides serged. Waistband then got folded up to enclose pockets and attached to cardigan body.

Pocket construction inside waistband

I caught pocket in dart seam in regular Aveiro.

 

 

Pocket inserted in dart seam on regular Aveiro

Lined pocket in regular Aveiro

I also had to do large bicep adjustment and drop shoulder seam.  This photo shows the main pattern adjustments

Aveiro pattern adjustments

I had trouble obtaining a consistent band width on the short Aveiro, unwisely sewing with serger without basting (unwise especially as it was only my 2nd garment sewn on a serger), which I had to unpick, and then baste on my sewing machine before serging again. The regular Aveiro I had bright idea of making use of 1/4″ quilting tape to mark distance from folded edge of band before sewing, which I then basted with small zigzag on my sewing matching before serging edge.

 

 

Laying down tape to guide sewing

Tape guiding band sewing on Aveiro