Gingham Button Up

This is the Sewholic Granville Shirt in a straight size 8.  Based on the wearable muslin I made in January, I shortened the shoulder seam (narrow shoulder adjustment) about 3/8-inch and the sleeves 2 1/2 inches.  Shortening the sleeves seems to be common– definitely check the length on yourself before sewing the sleeve plackets, after which there is no shortening.  This is a great pattern with a lot of support on the Sewaholic blog for the trickier construction details and the finer points of shirtmaking.  I found the collar the biggest challenge– definitely still perfecting my technique in that area.  The rest went together surprisingly easily, including the sleeve plackets and cuffs.

The biggest hurdle was my own idea that shirtmaking is difficult.  I usually sew projects as soon as I’ve cut them, but this one languished for a couple weeks because it seemed too big to take on.  I don’t know why– I made Granville before, it was no problem, and I’ve been wanting about five more in my wardrobe ever since.

I used red gingham from a local shop and floral print cotton scraps for some of the details.  I cut the gingham on the bias for the front placket, pocket, collar, under collar, and back yoke, because I really like that look.  It also saves bothering with stripe/check matching, for which I have limited patience and capacity.  I should have done the cuffs on the bias too, but at that point in the cutting my attention must have lapsed.  I used the floral print for the inside yoke, the under collar, and the sleeve plackets.  The red buttons are from my stash, and the interfacing is from Fashion Sewing Supply, which you’ve probably heard about from other bloggers like I did.  They really do have the best interfacing.

I wanted to try a new silhouette with my Granville, so I used New Look S0550 and scrap of navy rib knit to make a knee-length pencil-type skirt.  The shape is actually straight to very slightly a-line, about as pencil as I can go and still feel comfortable.  Not sure about the skirt, but glad I tried and now have such a patriotic outfit just in time for the 4th of July weekend, a non-event where I live in Berlin, Germany.  I’ve never felt more American than while living outside the country.  I never thought I’d especially miss the fireworks, flags, and tacky shit all over the place for the 4th of July, but I really really do.  I cried while making these buttonholes and listening to NPR Morning Edition hosts read the Declaration of Independence!  Happy weekend and happy sewing to all.